A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail

A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail            

Here is how you do it:

 - Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full

 - Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight

 - Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.

 - Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun!                                

How to make a landmine

How to make a landmine                    

First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.

       switch-----------battery
         \                  /
          \                /
           \              /
            \            /
            solar  igniter
                  |
                  |
                  |
              explosive

Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha

Phone Taps

Phone Taps                              

Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.

First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at    
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.

Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
 A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.

A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).

Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
             )!(
  Cap ^      )!(
             )!(
             )!(
             )!(
     ^^^^^---)!(------------->
       ^  100K
       !
       ! <Input

The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:

------^^^^^^^^^------------
      ---------
      RELAY^^
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)

If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.

For more info:

BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.

                                       

Chemical Equivalency list

Chemical Equivalency list                  


Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol

Home-brew blast cannon

Home-brew blast cannon                        


Materials needed:

 -1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
  diameter
 -1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
  diameter
 -1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
 -1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
  pipe
 -5 feet of bellwire
 -1 SPST rocker switch
 -16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
 -15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
 -Electrical Tape
 -One free afternoon

Procedure:

 - Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends

 - Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.

 - Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:

 /------------------------gas switch is here
 V
 /------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!

Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.

 - Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch

 - Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.

 - Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'

 - Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.

1---------------
v/
 2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
                3                                       the relay
 cc-------------/
 oo----------------4
 ii
 ll----------------5

Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.

 - Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)

 - You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.

 - Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!

To Test:

Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.

Have fun!                               :P

Under water igniters

Under water igniters                        

Materials needed:

 -Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
  know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
  objects!)
 -Pack of matches
 -1 candle

Procedure:

 - Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.

 - Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!

 - Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater

 - repeat to make as many as you want

How to use them:

When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
                     

LIGHTBULB BOMBS 2 4.14

--LIGHTBULB BOMBS 2  4.14        

     An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket.  A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.  It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system.  On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.  This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum.  When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base.  On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down
to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive
material, such as black powder.  If the glass was removed from the metal base,
it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy.  If a hole was put in the
bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the
bulb.  Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a
working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into
the socket.  Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much
success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first
turning on the light.